When I started brainstorming for my Literary provocations, Marie Antoinette, one of the most flamboyant films I have watched, immediately came to mind. I loved this film, due to the ostentatious costuming as well as the fascinating historical story line. When I dug deeper into the plot, I realised that Marie Antoinette’s life chronicles the contrast between the luxury of the wealthy and the will power of the poor. She married King Louis the 16thwhen she was 14 and ascended the throne at 18. She used her riches and power to lead a lavish lifestyle. During the time France was in an economic low and lots of people were struggling with poverty. This led to the French revolution which resulted in Marie Antoinette’s beheading. Her demise is how I want to influence the construction of my garment. I want to ultimately keep most of the duffle coats signifiers in tack but essentially have them cut and hanging off. This being a nod to her beheading. 

 

To convey this contrast between her frivolous life and her beheading I experimented with the sleeves being cut off and hanging. To draft the duffle coat pattern, I started with a dartless jacket block. I then took measurements from my own duffle coat to alter the block and create the pattern. This worked really well! Ultimately, I want the hood, sleeves and pockets hanging. To achieve this, I will have to sew each element as individual components which will be attached by two ribbons of fabric. In my example shown I tested the sleeves. The process of figuring out how to sew the sleeve with a lining as a complete piece was difficult. I added two pieces of fabric into the top of the sleeve to be attached to the shoulder of the main body. I think I would prefer the pieces of fabric to be thinner. They could even be a clear vinyl so that the pieces did look like they are actually cut off. My experiment went really well however, I am not looking forward to creating a hood which I have not done before.  I also want to experiment with the fabric. I would like it to reflect her extravagant lifestyle as well as being of the period. So, a pastel blue, pink or yellow jacquard or organza could work. It would have to be a fabric with is unsuitable for a duffle coat. Which was created for warmth and functionality. I am going to keep the toggle closures in the same position as is on the archetype as well as the shoulder yoke. I think this is necessary to still be able to identify the archetype that that is being subverted.